An official Month in Ghana!

Sorry for the delay here guys! It’s been a pretty hectic week here and we are still figuring things out…as usual. I think the place I should start is classes. I have officially finished registering! And yes, that's right. We have twenty weeks here in Ghana, and already four are over. HOLY CRAP.

Monday:

Twi (the local language here) 3:30-5 pm

Tuesday:

Play Analysis and Interpretation 7:30-9:20 am

            Music of West and Central Africa 3:30-5:20 pm

            Traditional Dance 6-7:30 pm

Wednesday:

            Literature of the African Diaspora 7:30-9:20 am

Introduction to the Music Studio (I actually haven’t gone to this class yet, so I’m not sure on the time- I’m auditing this one)

Traditional Drumming 1:30-3:20 pm

Thursday:

            Dramatic Theory and Criticism 1:30- 3:20 pm

            Twi 3:30-5 pm

            Traditional Dance 6-7:30 pm

Friday:

            Ghanaian Popular Music 11:30- 1:20 pm (auditing)

Yes…my schedule is a tad bit ridiculous. Those two classes I am just auditing though which is nice. And the workload here is less than in America. Instead of having consistent homework, we have readings and hardly any tests/quizzes depending on the class. A lot of our grade is based upon our final. So far I am liking the classes a lot! Last week was really our first week with all of the classes, so it was nice to finally see what life is going to be like here. The teachers here are very helpful and entertaining…I think the one I like most of all is the “oburoni” older man I have for Ghanaian Popular Music. He has been in Ghana forever, and has actually worked with Fela. Crazy, right? He has promised to tell us some nice jazz clubs to go to. SO looking forward to that.

I have started to learn some cool phrases in Twi! They have different letters such as a backwards 3, the way some people writes e’s. It makes more of an “eh” sound than a regular “e”. I am starting to slowly use some phrases with the locals…but its kind of scary.  A lot of the times when Ghanaians see oburonis use Twi they laugh at you! So I am trying to work myself up to that point where I can deal with the small ridicule. You have to learn somehow, right?

Play Analysis and Interpretation this week was pretty crazy…last week we had a sermon before class, and this week we discussed what “True love” means. In the play we read entitled, “Edufa” the lead discovers from a prophet that he is going to die soon. Being a huge figure head of the town who provides food to all and maintains a very high status, he looks for a way out of his impending death. The only way to prevent it, is for someone else to die for him. His wife declares that she loves him enough to die for him, and consequently becomes ill. The whole class went into a debate about what true love meant, and one student said that what was true love if you won’t die for someone? The raised up QUITE the discussion. People were standing in the hall being handed the microphone and declaring statements like: “The Bible says to love they neighbor as thyself, but to love thy neighbor more than thyself is a sin. Therefore, one should not die in the place of someone else”. Weird, right? I personally find that statement t be false, but apparently here they dec;are loving someone more than yourself to be a sin. I mean, I find it not to be particularly healthy I suppose, but I wouldn’t consider it a sin. I don’t know…any thoughts?

Any way, all three of us (Kim, Maggie and I) were getting frustrated because we all felt like we learned nothing in  relation to the material we had to read (both Hamlet and Edufa). After class we discussed and asked a few questions. The teacher was very helpful and told us a lot about what the symbols in the plays meant. The play Edufa is the first Ghanaian play we have read, and therefore had certain connotations we were unaware of, in addition to new symbols and character types. We learned that owls signal calamity and that when a woman presents her waist beads to her husband, it is seen as a disservice to him and says “I own you”. It also symbolizes destruction and disrespect for the husband and his role of authority in the marriage. Waist beads are basically a string of beads that are wrapped around females that have to do with femininity. Children also wear waist bands when they are little to get them to stop crawling faster.

After class, I was confused. Lets be real. How is that a class? Haha. Luckily, a student (one of the TA’s) came up and said that students like to get off topic and provoke certain conversations merely for the amusement of their classmates. It makes sense. We just need to adjust.

           

Dance and Drumming by far fulfill my purpose for being here. The energy in the classrooms are incredible. Everyone is beyond helpful and friendly, and I feel like it is in these classes where I feel most of the culture seeping in. I tend to close my eyes during drumming and let my hands do the work. I love the feeling of the drum against my palms. Our teacher is fabulous and we are looking into getting our own drums very soon!!! I cannot WAIT to have my own. Watch out, Muhlenberg. You will soon have three more drummers on campus. The dancing here is indescribable. No words can display how much I want to be able to do it. I think it is when I get the most frustrated though. All I want to do is be able to dance like them. I want to be Ghanaian so freaking bad. The movement just demands your entire body to have complete control while looking as if you are doing nothing. Of course, so is all of dance genres. But this movement emanates life and spirit. I think that’s the difference. It’s as if ballet and tap and all other forms of dance are regular movies while African dance for me is a 3-D digital projection with surround sound. Every movement makes your body feel alive and aware of all other bodies in front of you. In some of the moment you literally just grab the person’s butt in front of you and rest your cheek upon it. Your head is on their butt. Craziness. This class refuses to let you have bubbles. You are forced to acknowledge everyone around you. Forced to discover their bodies, forced to explore how your own body moves when it is unhindered by the western style of dance. Here we are encouraged to “boogie” as the teacher so affectionately calls it.  Of course, you end class dripping wet with sweat, but it makes your cold shower feel even more rewarding!

Hopefully I can handle such a course load…I also want to find time to volunteer once a week at an orphanage, We should be looking into that soon! Maggie and I would like to teach kids how to sing. I can’t wait to fit that in! 

NIGHTLIFE IN GHANA

“Back in the US, we usually have to make our own fun. Here in Ghana, usually the fun just ends up happening.”

This quote is an accurate depiction of what nightlife is like here in Ghana. Possibly because everything is so new, yes, but also because there is a more relaxed air here then you will ever find in America. Thursday night we just went to bar and watched a soccer game. Except watching a soccer game with Ghanaians is quite possibly the funniest and most entertaining thing ever. Also, people were drinking which helped them be more rowdy. Oh also, keep in mind this happened right after me and Kim took a cab to the approximate spot where the bar was located (trinity junction) (everyone else went before us) which ended up being a super busy intersection. Haha we were SO lost. But Maggie and Micki helped us out.

But yeah,  I ended up sitting next to a man who wrapped his arm around me and clearly knew nothing about personal space. I thought it was hysterical. Sometimes he forgot I was there and would say, “Oh! So sorry!” The game was between Madrid and Barcelona. Ghanaians, screaming, yelling, engaging in verbal jousts, there was no time when everyone was sitting, cool and collected. It was amazing to be part of such a crazed environment. The bartender attempted to keep up with his drink orders the entire night.

Friday night began the epic club night…we only went to one club, but it was pretty epic. Of course, it was Kim, Maggie, and I. We wanted others to come, but they took to long…and well, anyone who knows Kim knows that when she wants to go somewhere, you go. So we grabbed a cab and went to downtown Osu. Osu is apparently one of the most populated night life areas around. The drive was about fifteen minutes or so ,and on our way we passed a few prostitutes (yikes!) as well as  a KFC. I have also heard a rumor of an espresso bar in Osu which I will have to visit sometime VERY soon. Our destination was a club named Tantra. Down a random street, it was gated off and glowed in orange and red lights. The bouncer charged us 20 cedis at first, but then we got him to knock it down to about 16 a person. I guess being a girl helps ;). We walked in, and I was instantly amazed. Keep in m mind, this was my first real club experience. There was a huge TV screen playing music videos, a full wall bar, and a nice dance floor as well as a few sitting areas with nice chairs and couches. Upstairs was another bar and more seating. Then there was a patio we could also use to get some air. First of all, people are allowed to smoke inside the club, So, that was an experience. But then again, I feel like coming home smelling like cigarettes is kind of a requirement when coming home from a club. That, and being a sweaty, hot mess. Haha.

At first, we contented ourselves by dancing all around the dance floor. As the place began to fill up, we ended up procuring drinks for free. (Such a perk- a love being a girl here sometimes). Like, people would be passing around tequila shots and just offer them to you (ignore this part parents!). The men here can be grabby though. They just start dancing up behind you and then you smile and walk away. Or they would engage you in some sort of dance competition and watch what moves you can bring to the table. We were all surprised to see Christina (one of our CIEE reps) at the club. That was a funny moment! Haha Also, there were a lot of oboruni in the club. Next time we are hoping to find a club that is more congregated with locals. Maggie was stolen by a random Russian guy who preceded to hit on all of us, but loved Maggie’s hair. Haha We kept rotating between going upstairs and downstairs to avoid the various men that began to pursue us. Some actually were bold enough to steal us from other men (weird and territorial). My favorite was when one guy asked Maggie if she had a boyfriend and she said yeah. He preceded to walk away. Haha. It was quite the event…we actually ended up staying there till four am. A bouncer ended up getting us a reliable taxi to take us home. This week we are looking forward to going to Afrodisiac. Apparently it’s ladies night every Thursday and girl’s get in for freeeee. But, we aren’t allowed to wear flip flops…weird. Looking forward to that!

NIGHTLIFE IN GHANA

“Back in the US, we usually have to make our own fun. Here in Ghana, usually the fun just ends up happening.”

This quote is an accurate depiction of what nightlife is like here in Ghana. Possibly because everything is so new, yes, but also because they is a more relaxed air here then you will ever find in America. Thursday night we just went to bar and watched a soccer game. Except watching a soccer game with Ghanaians is quite possibly the funniest and most entertaining thing ever. Also, people were drinking which helped them be more rowdy. Oh also, keep in mind this happened right after me and Kim took a cab to the approximate spot where the bar was located (trinity junction) (everyone else went before us) which ended up being a super busy intersection. Haha we were SO lost. But Maggie and Micki helped us out.

But yeah,  I ended up sitting next to a man who wrapped his arm around me and clearly knew nothing about personal space. I thought it was hysterical. Sometimes he forgot I was there and would say, “Oh! So sorry!” The game was between Madrid and Barcelona. Ghanaians, screaming, yelling, engaging in verbal jousts, there was no time when everyone was sitting, cool and collected. It was amazing to be part of such a crazed environment. The bartender attempted to keep up with his drink orders the entire night.

Friday night began the epic club night…we only went to one club, but it was pretty epic. Of course, it was Kim, Maggie, and I. We wanted others to come, but they took to long…and well, anyone who knows Kim knows that when she wants to go somewhere, you go. So we grabbed a cab and went to downtown Osu. Osu is apparently one of the most populated night life areas around. The drive was about fifteen minutes or so ,and on our way we passed a few prostitutes (yikes!) as well as  a KFC. I have also heard a rumor of an espresso bar in Osu which I will have to visit sometime VERY soon. Our destination was a club named Tantra. Down a random street, it was gated off and glowed in orange and red lights. The bouncer charged us 20 cedis at first, but then we got him to knock it down to about 16 a person. I guess being a girl helps ;). We walked in, and I was instantly amazed. Keep in m mind, this was my first real club experience. There was a huge TV screen playing music videos, a full wall bar, and a nice dance floor as well as a few sitting areas with nice chairs and couches. Upstairs was another bar and more seating. Then there was a patio we could also use to get some air. First of all, people are allowed to smoke inside the club, So, that was an experience. But then again, I feel like coming home smelling like cigarettes is kind of a requirement when coming home from a club. That, and being a sweaty, hot mess. Haha.

At first, we contented ourselves by dancing all around the dance floor. As the place began to fill up, we ended up procuring drinks for free. (Such a perk- a love being a girl here sometimes). Like, people would be passing around tequila shots and just offer them to you (ignore this part parents!). The men here can be grabby though. They just start dancing up behind you and then you smile and walk away. Or they would engage you in some sort of dance competition and watch what moves you can bring to the table. We were all surprised to see Christina (one of our CIEE reps) at the club. That was a funny moment! Haha Also, there were a lot of oboruni in the club. Next time we are hoping to find a club that is more congregated with locals. Maggie was stolen by a random Russian guy who preceded to hit on all of us, but loved Maggie’s hair. Haha We kept rotating between going upstairs and downstairs to avoid the various men that began to pursue us. Some actually were bold enough to steal us from other men (weird and territorial). My favorite was when one guy asked Maggie if she had a boyfriend and she said yeah. He preceded to walk away. Haha. It was quite the event…we actually ended up staying there till four am. A bouncer ended up getting us a reliable taxi to take us home. This week we are looking forward to going to Afrodisiac. Apparently it’s ladies night every Thursday and girl’s get in for freeeee. But, we aren’t allowed to wear flip flops…weird. Looking forward to that!

Week One of Classes.

I figured it was time for an update concerning classes.

Yes. Welcome to the University of Ghana where you walk around looking for classes, find them, sit down and wait for a half hour for the professor to not show up, and then leave and grab a coffee (in my particular case). This was the case for about four or five of my classes this week…such a bummer. But, apparently its because hardly any students show up to the first week of classes, and there is awful traffic in Ghana.

HOWEVER! The classes I did go to were fantastic. I will give a play-by-play. Monday I was told there was “Traditional Song” at 7:30 am. Yeah. So my weel started out so freaking early. Anyone who knows me, knows how much of a struggle this must have been for me. Oh Ghana…the sacrifices I make for you. Haha But it turned out, the class was actually Intro to singing, which I don’t need to take at all. Also, the professor did not show. So, one class down. That was located in the Performing arts school, which is approximately a 15-20 minute walk from my dorm. Not too bad compared to the other places. Since I was already out in the department, I went and tried to find a voice teacher. Luckily, everyone is extremely helpful here, and the head of the music department led me to a man named Ben Amakye Boateng. I told him I was an international student (clearly, as if he was confused or something haha…its not like I’m American-looking or anything) and was trying to find out where to find a place to do vocal warm-ups, and possibly have some lessons. He told me about a previous student he had where they arranged for her to use his office once a week to sing and do whatever she wanted to. Play piano, warmups, etc. He said if I took lessons, this would be easily arranged. So, I ended up requesting him for lessons…and I scheduled my first one for this upcoming Thursday at 1:30. However, I’m nervous considering Maggie went to him after I did and set up a lesson and he didn’t show…so I’m hoping to have some better luck. I really need to get my voice in working condition soon. I miss it like CRAZY.

Side note, after I left his office I heard someone playing piano. It was a song that Wesley plays all the time, and I freaked out. I sat by the door and listened for a bit. Wesley was a little bit better (haha) but I am biased. Made me miss fatty…

Anyway, after I had my Twi class at 3:30-5. I have this class Mondays and Thursdays. This is the only class I am in that meets twice a week. All other class (with the exception of dance and some music courses) only meet for two hours a week. Then there is a class tutorial for an hour later on that week to discuss the lecture or class. Interesting, no? Twi is HARD. I was expecting it to be easy for me, because I am usually good at picking up languages. Twi is a tonal language, and also has some new letters that are confusing. Like a backwards c. Weird. Whoops, I mean different. Hahaha. But honestly, the language is really cool. I am liking it so far. I feel like it will really help to get to know Ghanaians on campus.

I had one class after this where the professor did not show, it was a history course called “The Black Diaspora”. I’m sure a few of you are wondering why the heck I’m taking a history course. Recently I decided that I am going to add a double minor of music and African American Studies. It is going to be a very tight squeeze with credits though. I am really hoping that between Kim and Kim Gallon, I can graduate on time. Kim Gallon, for those who don’t know, is the new head of the African American Studies minor. Apparently the title is soon to be changed to “Africana”. I love it. But because of this change, I am trying to figure out if I can take any courses here to fulfill requirements for that minor. I am already taking a music elective for the music minor, leaving me only one more course to take back at Muhlenberg to fulfill it. It’s quite a different story for the Theater major with a double concentration and the remaining minor. But, god-willing, it will work out. The professor did not show up for that class. However, I did meet a very nice man named Albert who asked for my number, where I lived, and if I would like to go clubbing with him on Saturday. “…sorry I don’t have a phone yet. And I’m not sure exactly where I live yet. (insert girlish laugh) I’m such an international student.” Response: “I can at least drive you back to Pentagon though.” Me: “Oh no, I need the exercise.”

It’s funny, but you will literally be walking back to your dorm and a guy will pull over in some sports car and say, “Hey, are you going to Pent?” and expect you to get in the car with them. STRANGER DANGER.

Tuesday I had the luck to have a 7:#0 am class AGAIN. However, this time the professor showed. And he is amazing. The class is called Play Analysis and Interpretation. The material looks fantastic- we are reading a few Shakespeare pieces, along with some new material which are African plays, and finally one of his plays as well. After class me, Kim and Maggie walked up to talk to him, and he hugged us all. I almost fainted. I believe my response was, “Where am I?” and he laughed. But seriously, Muhlenberg students, when has a professor EVER hugged you? On the first day? Ill tell you when, never. He was so welcoming and extremely happy that we were taking his class. Let’s just say I am extremely looking forward to that class. Even if it is a forty minute walk away and in the early hours of the morn. Fun fact, the teacher is the godfather of one of our upals, Micki.

Later that day I had Music of West and Central Africa. The class is going to be awesome…we are going to take field trips. Also, as a side note, so far almost all of my classes are not strictly lecture and are instead more discussion and participation based, meaning this transition will be hopefully easier than expected. This class is going to be my music elective- and it only has fifteen people or so. Which is ideal. More interaction with the teacher and students!

And then came the Traditional Dance Class. Wow. I can’t even begin to explain how amazing this class is. I don’t even know if I can. We learned a song, we dance some hardcore African, the class is huge- almost a hundred students. Luckily we have a lot of TA’s helping out. Here is a select portion of the song:

Kekere kekere jo ja jo ja ja ja ja

Kekere kekere jo ja jo ja ja ja ja

Moba Yoo

Etc. etc.  I was so happy I wanted to cry. I mean picture this- I am sweaty, disgusting, barefoot, sitting on the floor in the dance studio surrounded by a hundred other students and Ghanaians and we are singing a Traditional song. The doors are all open and young girls who go around selling snacks and water bags sit outside and try to follow along with the dancing. They sing along with us and join the community. I’m sitting thinking, I am in Africa. Singing and dancing. How cool is this? How lucky am I to be in another country…to see what people see here. Incredible. These kind of moments I never want to forget.

Wednesday I had the pleasure of attending a Traditional Drumming class. Let me tell you…once again I died. First of all, because its hard. Second of all because we did the class, outside on benches with our own drums. It was amazing. Lizards came around and were dancing (yes dancing) to our drumming. We learned a few simple phrases and rhythms. A lot of the class was centered on picking out rhythms and seeing how others fit in. Its really more difficult than I expected it to be, especially since I’m not new to the whole music thing. I guess I thought it would be easier. We bought our own drumsticks for 1 cedi, they were handmade. The teacher’s name is Francis and he did a fabulous job teaching a huge class. There is around 30 of us, and all of us are international students. Let’s just say I am thrilled to be taking drumming…and hopefully at the end I can bring back my own drum. Atsu (one of the upals) said that his family makes drums, and we can buy them from him. I will definitely be looking into that.

When looking into what classes to take this semester, I had a lot of issues since I need to get in a TON more credits to do my desired major/minors. However, I looked at the situation and decided that I needed to take Traditional dance as well as Traditional Drumming. I would never have forgiven myself if I was in Ghana for a semester and did not try my hand at both of these things. So I decided that I would take what I wanted to take (those two classes) and then take courses I needed to take. Even if it means I will need to take another summer course, it is totally worth it.

Thursday I had the pleasure of being on the radio station on campus- its called Radio Universe. For those of you who know Kim, she was on it as well. We were asked by one of our upals to go and basically function as an international students panel.  They asked us questions, we answered, etc. It was so much more entertaining than I thought it would be. We were also graced by the presence of a student from Liberia. He had been on campus for two years, but was still considered to be an international student. I think my favorite part of the session was when they asked us what was the most surprising thing you leaned in orientation. Kim and me just looked at each other and immediately had the same thoughts. Definitely the stressed subject of being an American female on this campus and how it would gain unwarranted attention from males. We then went on to describe some typical conversations we have been privy to and how forward the guys are verbally. Then, a man texted in a “Question” for us that basically said something along the lines of, Hi my name is Michael and I live in so and so hall. Please give Kim and Jessie my number and tell them I would like to spend some time in their company. I would love to be their personal tour guide. Haha. Oh yes, men on this campus apparently have a sense of humor. The students running the station loved it.

A quick recap of Friday, I had two courses but neither professor showed up. The first one was for Ghanaian Popular Music, and the second Dramatic Theories and Criticism.

So there you have it! Quick recap of the weeks events-but mainly I wanted to update everyone on the classes. Apparently this week is when classes truly start. Ill be looking forward to that! Also. There are auditions coming up for the first play this semester. It’s a Bernard Shaw piece called Androcles and the Lion. Auditions are this week, and I’m considering doing the audition…but we shall see. I have to do a ton more research before if I want to. Anyway- coming soon to a blog near you will be a sketch of the nightlife we have experienced here so far. Believe me, its pretty ridiculous. :)

"The Struggle Continues"

Yes. Thank you random poster on the lawn in Accra. The struggle does continue. Finally encountering a little bit of down time in Ghana my thoughts continuously go to home and the luxuries that I am starting to miss. I miss my turkey sandwiches, my endless supply of water, a hot running shower, access to a gym, air conditioning, a large comfy bed, the list continues. And whenever these things flash through my head I think its less than five months Jessie, suck it up. People go abroad for a year and survive why can’t you?

Today I was sitting on a tro-tro and I looked down at my arms and was suddenly struck by how white I am. I mean, yes, I am a pale girl. Freckles and all- but I have never carried around “being white” wherever I go. First semester sophomore year before I got to take African Dance and Culture with the fabulous Charles Anderson, he came into our Dance and Society class to discuss race. He once said to us, “Do you carry around your white privilege everyday? Are you constantly thinking about the fact that you are white?” I dare not answer out loud, but I knew the answer was no. I never thought about my skin color until faced with someone different. Everyone around me was darker. I had a glaring spotlight on me. Not because I was white exactly, but because I was not Ghanaian. Little children with beautiful shining faces look up at you and scream, “obruni!” just hoping to grab your attention on the street because you are “different”. They wander outside of their “homes” to see us pass by…God I can’t even finish that sentence. Today I saw corners of a building shaded and pinned closed by a few flimsy-looking sheets…a naked child playing in the dirt. That is their home. Behind a pooh bear sheet wall is where they sleep at night. Talk about carrying around my privilege with me in Ghana.

There are so many things I see everyday that I want to remember and document, but there is no way I can remember all of them. So many things are different- so many sights cause me to re-examine, cause me to think about how lucky I am- cause me to sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride. This is the ultimate challenge.

The other day I was re-affirmed of my decision to come here. We had our last orientation “lecture” with the head of the dance department. The professor was named Oh! Nii Sowah. Cool, right? We walked into the dance hall which was an open room with a bunch of fans (not plugged in!!! gah) and a stage which currently had four or five instrumentalists paired with drums and other pieces of percussion. We started bare foot (as you can imagine, I was quite pleased since I HATE shoes) in a circle. Yes…from here on in, the smile never left my face. The drums began and we started moving. Slowly at first, a few rhythm exercises for us to get the beat into our body. Of course, the entire time I was thinking about Charles and African…I missed my lapa. Good thing I brought it! Hopefully I’ll find some use for it.

We all greeted each other personally, through shaking hands multiple times, and some dance majors were there as well to help out the class. Lets just say we ended up doing a form of a bon ta bah (spelling? Im probably butchering it, I apologize) and I died of happiness. Particularly when one student started yipping at me and called me Shakira, hips don’t lie. All I could think about was Brooke and my final project group….Miss you Becca, Meg, Rachel, Kimmy, and Brooke! They described dance as a way of expressing what is happening on the inside…to just let it out. Almost a direct quote from Bush women…I died. I almost wanted to cry out of happiness. It’s just how beautiful African dance is. How effortless it becomes for people. They were singing a traditional song, demonstrating what we hope to accomplish in our time here and all I could think about was the wind blowing through my face, the sweat coursing down my body, the way my heart was beating outside of its chest, and how I felt nurtured through this artform. Through this idea that nothing should exist solely on the inside. So, while I am scared out of my mind, and longing for my American luxuries, I am alive here. And thrown into a new world where people jump up to dance with you.

We did an exercise in groups of five where one person had to fall back and get pushed back up by their supporting group members. Basically trust falls. But the Ghanaians…they actually trust one another. Despite the ridiculous heat and dusty floors, they jumped in the air, pumped each other up, and caught all of their team members regardless of their weight, their color, their height…we were in it together. It was a beautiful two hours.

Going into Accra was quite another adventure…we visited grave of Ghana’s first president, Kwame Nkrumah (1909-1972). Here this man is an idol. Seriously. There is a huge statues dedicated to him and everything.  

And here is where the famous man of Ghana is buried...under this magnificent structure.

His wife is also buried under there. FYI.

Also, super cool, Nelson Mandela planted a mango tree right next to it: 

So, yeah. Unfortunately after these photos, my camera decided to be rude and die. So here is where the picture portion ends for this blog. Anyway, after we saw these structures, we walked inside and saw the actual site of where Kwame's body was buried. Pretty cool. Then we realized we were not the only group on a tour today. Yes, that's right, a group of children were on a tour. Beautiful, beautiful children. Decked out in their yellow and navy blue uniforms. They began to follow us, whisper, smiling to each other, and some even said hello. Almost all of the girls had shorter hair but had earrings in. They were all lovely. Once one had the courage to talk to you, you would slowly watch other children gang up behind them, and eventually twelve children would be staring at you watching your every move. One child told me their name, and said, "make sure not to forget it!". I unfortunately was not able to take pictures of them, but Kim was able to- so check out her blog. After we hit up the tour, we got back on the bus and proceeded to see Independence Square (where all of the festivities occur on March 6th) and the Presidents castle. GORGEOUS. I wish I could have taken some photos. However, then we passed through Makola Market. 

Never have I been more happy to be on a bus. i am so glad that today was for our viewing pleasure only. I would have died if I had been told to go out and explore. First of all, I would have gotten lost, but second of all, there was so many people and too many things to look at! I would have gotten robbed immediately. I know it. haha An adventure for another day, I am sure. I still need fabric for clothing! Overall, I feel like each day I learn something new and encounter a different perspective that forces me to re-examine my priorities and everyday living habits at home. Welcome to a challenging environment! Today classes start, but I have yet to actually have one yet. I have Twi (one of the many languages in Ghana) this afternoon at 3:30 and then a history class called the Black Diaspora at 5:30. Should be an interesting day! 

Explanation of Photos...and some more.

Hey y'all! So these are pictures of the room. They are cupboard/lockers for our clothes, the blue net over the bed is obviously the mosquito net, and the clear bag is a huge container of small individual bags of water. You can buy these packs of 30 waters for under two dollars. Pretty cool, huh? Also, those blue buckets are what we are currently using for showers. haha. Below are some photos of the campus- it includes some cool monuments/statues, the library, my dorm building, etc.

Pictures of the Room

One Week Down!

So here I am drinking my first cup of coffee (made by yours truly) sitting on my bed wondering what this day will bring. My plan is to talk to some faculty members in the music and theater department. But mainly I want to talk to music department people to see when I can find space to sing in. I am missing my voice like no other…it’s interesting to see what you need to survive in a space that’s unfamiliar. So far, I know I need water (not as easy as it sounds, just took another successful bucket shower), coffee, my ipod, and my voice.  At the end of this program I intend to write down everything I have learned about myself.

On a lighter note, I finally got my pictures to stay up on my wall…after almost a whole roll of masking tape I finally realized it was sticky enough to hold up the sixty some pictures I brought to decorate my walls. They hold everything from SMT fun moments with James, Kimmy, Wes, Nick Pick and Chris Routh to family photos with my very missed siblings. It’s nice to surround yourself with photos that make yourself more familiar in your area. I am already getting used to my mosquito-netted bed. I like being enclosed. I feel safe from everything. I started off the day listening to “Believe” which is Ethan’s solo in Acafellas. I love listening to songs that hold a specific visual memory. I can picture that acapella concert in Empie theater with Ethan’s ridiculous acapella bop. Hahaha.

But anyway, back to more informative things. We had a tro-tro excursion the other day. If this term is new to you, (I think I might have mentioned it before) it’s pretty much a van/bus that brings people around for cheaper than a taxi. They get pretty crowded, and tend to be not in the best of conditions. I haven’t seen this yet, but apparently live animals are brought on during rush hour- meaning I could be sharing a seat with a chicken instead of a person? Haha. So different here. But we all congregated at the main gate (a 15-20 minute walk) and went to the street to pick up a tro-tro. The fare is anywhere from 30-50 pesawas depending on where you are going. We were told to introduce ourselves immediately to those next to us and ask how they are doing- because often these people will be the ones to tell us which stop to get off on. Also, Ghanaians apparently consider it rude not to greet them. Imagine that, America?

It wasn’t that bad, I’m not gonna lie. It reminded me of those big taxis you take on the islands. Kind of sketchy, but it is the best way to get around, money and time wise. Later, after the tro-tro, we tried our first cocnut on the street. They just cut off the top of the coconut and let you drink out of it. When all the juice was gone, they would open it, chop out the fruit, and put it in a bag to go. I only got one sip, but it tasted a little bit like sea water…only better. I guess I expected a sweeter flavor. But it was cool and refreshing. A good snack to have available. We had a campus tour after that. It took over two hours. Yeah. TWO HOURS. The campus is massive. And slightly confusing because the street signs are off sometimes. What amazes me is all of the different departments. Zoology, Archaeology, Botany, etc. And the campus is gorgeous. All of the buildings are white (seem to be adobe-ish material?) with reddish brown roofing. The plants and statues surrounding various buildings become botanical centerpieces for the campus wih cactuses, pink and red flowers, etc.

The Balme library may have to be my favorite though. It has a courtyard which makes me extremely happy as well as many different hallways, a large computer lab, a rare books section, and a long pond stretching outside the front of it. Stunning. Statues line the pond up the entrance to the building. Pictures will be up soon I swear. Afterwards we went to the Bush Canteen. This was perhaps the biggest culture shock I had received. I expected a school store. Enclosed, clean, organized, etc. What I found was a dirt side street leading to a series of market stands. Some animals roaming about with the occasional Ghanaian saying, “Are you married?” and women saying, “Come here, Come here, Obruni”. Obruni is the term used for white person, or mainly a foreigner. It’s cramped everywhere, and one has to be careful with their belongings because of this. After buying a few essentials, a bucket with a lid for water, a towel, water, a knife, pineapple, disinfectant spray, etc. we settled down to eat. I have tried some local dishes (ambitious for me, who is constantly eating turkey subs and panera) such as banku. Unfortunately, I’m blanking on what it is…not pounded yams, but something along those lines. It looks like balls of pounded rice with a thick, sticky consistency. You pick it up with your fingers after you wash your right hand (the only hand you should eat with) and dip it in the soup with meat. You even eat the meat without utensils. Definitely a different atmosphere from home!

Besides that, we have had some other orientation sessions with the rest of the international students. In total, there are over two hundred of us. We all come from different places, which is cool. There are some from Germany, Egypt, South Korea, Canada, etc. I love that I am meeting new people everyday. Although I know eventually I will miss the small university feeling where it’s impossible to walk three feet without recognizing someone.

I feel better knowing that I am already getting used to this lifestyle. At this point, I am almost enjoying how different everything is…not as much in regards to the hygiene aspect, but overall its different. And there is never going to be another time in my life where I can live here. It’s time to live it up…how does one do that? Perhaps Reggae night every Wednesday? Who knows!

Day Five in Ghana: Just more Adjustment

So we had just got adjusted to our nice hotel room…complete with air conditioning, nicely made beds, hot water, spacious living conditions, and maid service. Fast forward to our arrival in East Legon on the campus. Let’s just say, our dorm alone is bigger than Muhlenberg. Yeah. Let’s think about that ‘berg people. The distance in walking from this dorm to the other International Student Hostel is roughly a forty five minute walk. Yeah. Why? Haha

            Gyasi (our program director) has made that the universal saying for the trip. Why? Why in America do we tip when in Ghana tipping is seen as a gift? A reason for a Ghanaian to welcome you even further into their lives. Why is education in American up to 65, 000 dollars per year while in Ghana, primary (elementary) and secondary junior college (middle through highschool I believe) is mostly free? It wasn’t until around fifteen years ago that payment began involved in schooling. And even then, college for a year is roughly 450 cedi to 500 cedi. That is around 300-350 dollars American. Yeah. Why? WHY?!

            But then you realize that American’s minimum wage is what? 7.50? Here it is custom for one to make only 2 cedi or 3 cedis a day (these are street sellers). Minimum wage for them is equivalent to 2 or 3 cedis. I cannot believe it. Yesterday morning we had a lecturer come in from the University named Dr. Kofi Baku. He is a history professor with a great sense of humor, a very good public speaker. He gave a speech about the Evolution of Modern Ghana. Ghana gained their independence on March 6^th, 1957. It is bordered by three French-speaking countries. The language of Ghana is English- so no worries there. However, they have over 79 language groups in the country. He broke it down into 6 general groups: Akan (45%), Mole-Dagbani (15%), Ewe (13%), Ga-Abangbe (9%), Gurma (4%), and Grusi (2%). Quite a handful, am I right. Ladies? Haha

            Here comes the kind of history we Americans NEVER like to hear about. The Portuguese were the first to arrive to Ghana and they found gold. They named it “La Mina” for the mining and the gold found available. Today it is called Elmina. The Southern Coast of Ghana became known as the shopping line. However, soon the gold trade was switched to slave trade. He mentioned three types of slavery: Domestic, Atlantic, Indian Ocean, and the Trans-Saharan slave trade. On paper, these slave trades lasted from 1530 till 1807. However, it “illegally” existed till 1874. Here comes the overwhelming statistics.

            From 1530-1600, 13,000 people were taken as slaves. From 1600-1700, it was 27,500 people.  From 1700-1800 it was 70,000. Can you imagine? The leap from those two hundred years is astounding to me. After 1800, the number jumped even higher to 135,000. Absolutely insane. INSANE.

            After slavery, the professor jumped on Colonialism. Europeans needed industrial raw materials…and where would we get them? Certainly not from ourselves. Palm oil was needed to lubricate engines that brought fossil fuels into being. The palm oil was also used as edible vegetable oil, a suitable way to make soap, etc. This professor did a good job expressing how history keeps repeating itself. Countries have always wanted exclusive markets to protect their industries. However, today everything comes from China. The Ghanaian flag comes from China. Computer parts come from China. EVERYTHING comes from China. Also, the more we develop technology, the less employment. This is currently an issue that is being experienced throughout America. Even back then, it was prevalent. The cotton gin put many people out of work.

            One of the more humorous parts of his lecture included an interaction he had with another lecturer at a seminar. She said that they were making a mistake in not making a monument  of a mosquito in Africa because it drove the white man away. Haha. We all got a good laugh out of that. How true.

            America, unfortunately, has not allowed Ghana to hold true profit to their oil and gold materials. We have taken over their gold and oil enterprises. Recently, Ghana has struck oil and has had a great boost in their economy. However, they only have access to 12% of the product instead of the 100%. Through colonialism, we have been able to harvest a great deal of their raw materials. Through nationalism, Ghanaians began to fight back. Education exposed the idea of freedom, and armed those being schooled with a new wisdom. Americans could not ignore this new cry of wisdom due to the power of intellectual argument. Colonial racism began to take part in employment throughout schools. Soon black teachers were being replaced by white ones, regardless of the qualifications of black teachers. In 1925 the Gold Coast established a high school. Their first principal named Alexander Frasierargued that he wanted black professors and not just white men. He argued that black teachers instead of white teachers would be more effective in teaching to black students. 8 white teachers were recruited and one black teacher. When arriving in the Gold coast, the 8 white teacher were offered European lodging while the black was offered African lodging. Here we see a side of whites that make me feel slightly less cruel- the whites refused to stay in there lodgings unless if the black professor was allowed to stay with them. Eventually, a white professor gave up his bed for the black professor in an effort to promote equality. However, this is just one situation. An example if you will. I am not arguing that because of this one example, white people are excused from the years of colonial racism that took place. It’s just a nice reminder to us that everything is not black and white.

            On a more general note, in East Legon, where we are staying for the four and a half months, the first president of Ghana was buried. Independence was also declared here. On July 1^st, 1960, Ghana became a republic meaning that now they had a president instead of a monarch as their head of state.

            We discussed a few more interferences of America into Ghana’s affairs- such as their interactions during the Cold War. Believing Ghana to support the Soviet Union in the War, they interfered to “discipline” the country. We did not delve into the details of the discipline. Similar to the U.S., each president has a four-year term and can only have this title for a total of two terms. Today, their president is John Evans Ata Mills. He was elected in January 2009.

            SO ANYWAY, I thought I would give a little history lesson to the readers. Hopefully it wasn’t too boring. I think its important to generate some awareness from this blog…or at least I hope too. Now on a more personal note, I am finally on campus in my room with a roommate. Her name is Sama, and she is from Pittsburg, goes to school in Atlanta. Funny story, my mom prayed that my roommate would either be Ghanaian or from Atlanta. Strange, right? But she is the best roommate I could have hoped for. She probably won’t have as many bouts of homesickness as I will, which means she can help me out. Also, she is a generally more positive person than I am. Haha. According to Ethan and a few others, I am a very pessimistic person. Hence, why I have been experiencing some difficulties. But, I signed up for these difficulties, didn’t I? It’s just that you never know what you are getting yourself into. So far I have talked to some family member each day here, in addition to Ethan. I know eventually I won’t need such a strong communication with home, but for now, I find it to be necessary. Luckily I have a father who supports that one hundred percent. He just wants me to be happy and I am one incredibly blessed daughter.

            So, in the meantime when I am feeling down, I keep reminding myself that this is temporary. And that everything I am viewing is not my home, but is the home of over 24 million Ghanaians. I get to experience it for four and a half months. I get a snippet. Today I woke up, and the water was out. Weird….right? I had to use a water bottle to brush my teeth and haven’t gone to the bathroom yet. Temporary for me, lifelong for Ghanaians. My walls are now decorated with over sixty pictures of Muhlenberg friends, as well as my family and some dogs that aren’t mine (haha sorry to be creepy, Ethan). Next to my bed I posted a select number of photos that include my siblings, Samantha (my best friend from Massachusetts), and Ethan. It’s nice to look over and touch the pictures, knowing I will have them back again soon. But for now, I am here. Regardless of any tears, any frustration, I am in Ghana, Africa (as my mother says). Let’s not spend the day’s homesick, shall we? Hahaha. It’s getting easier. A few more days to adapt to the room, a few weeks to adapt to the distances, and four months to adapt to the heat. That’s it for now, folks.

            A shoutout to Sam, Ethan, and the family- thank you for being so supportive and loving. You should know there would be no way I could do this without you. Prayers are appreciated- you know, the usual J. Also, registration begins this week, apparently the most stressful part of being here. Wish me luck. 

Day 3. Orientation and Getting Adjusted.

Alright. Day 3 in Ghana. The past few days have been pretty hectic, so I haven’t been able to update the blog! It has been crazy here. We arrived off the airplane and walked straight onto the runway! There was no tunnel to the building. That was the first big difference. We went straight through customs with a big sign overhead that said “Akwaaba!” meaning welcome. Already I had learned my first Ghanaian word! After customs we picked up our luggage and we were rallied up by our new friend Gideon who held up his CIEE poster. Our luggage was put on a tro-tro which is the equivalent to a very large taxi/bus/van. It holds a lot of people (25ish) but can be kind of cramped. We were handed out two water bottles per person- that was the first stop on the tro tro. So, so far no worries on the water front. Actually, they suggested when we are on campus to purchase sashay water, which comes in bags with a pack of thirty. This is only 1 cedi and 50 pesawas while one water bottle in 60 pesawas. A much better deal. But so far we have had a LOT of orientation. We are currently staying at a place called the Mensvic Hotel until tomorrow morning when we get on campus. The hotel is super nice, which I feel has lured us into a false sense of security. Haha There is air conditioning, two double beds, a nice shower, and a balcony. The room is surprisingly spacious and we also have a TV. After hanging out for a bit in the hotel, we went to dinner at a place around the corner. We walked and were able to see a bunch of HUGE houses. If anyone ever told you that there are no wealthy people in Ghana, they were wrong. These houses are massive and beautiful. Unlike the US where we have blah colored houses like brown, grey, burhundy, light blue, etc. they have powder blues and bright reds with colorful roofs and elaborate beautiful gates. These bigger houses have gates surrounding them with barbed wire and/or broken glass to keep out thieves/predators and animals (im assuming). W e ate outside with the whooping 58 members of our class (a record for CIEE) and I had my first taste of Ghanaian food. I am not sure how to spell the food, so bear with me. I believe the rice was called jolof (sounds like jall-off). It was red and a tiny bit spicy. We had salad (without dressing which is interesting. I don’t believe they have salad dressing here), French fries, chicken wings, fried plantains, a vegetarian soup, and a few other dishes. I tried a little bit of everything but avoided most super spicy things. I am not a huge fan of spice, so I’m trying to gradually introduce it to my system!

            After that we chatted with Kweasibea (one of the U Pals who goes to the University who are part of the program to help us out, show us around, and be our friends) about campus life and learned about some of the groups of people on campus. There is a hall which is associated with the color red- she made them sound like a fraternity. Somewhat equivalent to Phi Tau. Haha They do everything together and have “rivals” on campus. After we went a grabbed a beer at the hotel (which is allowed! J drinking age is 18 in Ghana).

            The first night was rough for me. I had some tears. Unfortunately, I inherited my mom’s trait of being emotional, in the way that I can not, for the life of me, hide my emotions. I am transparent when it comes to that. Instead of being thrilled with my presence in a new country, all I could think about was how I was going to be there for four and a half months and how long that was….I was not thinking positively. Will my family still be there when I get back? Will my boyfriend and friends still be the same? And I know things will be different, but everyone will still be there. For some reason I have these terrible fears of my family disappearing, or my boyfriend breaking up with me while I’m abroad, and those thoughts were not only unhelpful, but detrimental to the experience. I had to keep reminding myself that this is a privilege that I am incredibly lucky to have. So, I have already experienced the emotional traumas of abroad- haha and its only been a few days! Maggie and Kim have been awesome so far, comforting me and I can’t thank God enough for them.

            What’s hard, is something my very best friend Sam told me, being patient with yourself. There is no way I can walk into a whole new country and be immediately okay with it (at least I can’t). When I get upset at the situation, I get upset and frustrated with myself and my inability to adapt quickly- but such a demand is hardly realistic to put on myself. I am an independent person, but I am very close to my family and friends. It’s not easy to be thrown away from that. However, through a few deep breaths, and the shifting of perspective, I am getting better with each day.

            Our second day we purchased phones and SIM cards at the Accra Mall! This was fascinating. They have similar type stores to ours, but different names as well as different food places. However, they had a pretty good pizza place which was good to see. Our phones were extremely cheap- they recommended getting the cheapest possible considering we will only need it for a four and a half months. Also, It won’t likely be stolen. No one wants a 40 cedi phone. They want an expensive iphone or blackberry. After going to the mall and grabbing lunch, exchanging money, etc. we took a group photo outside of the mall.

            Back at orientation we discussed many topics such as Race and Sexuality, Money, Communication, Classes, Transportation, Security tips around campus and in the city, Health/Medical Concerns, etc. We also had many Q&A sessions on what our biggest fears are and what our goals are. Later that night we got our first taste of Ghanaiam High Life and Hip Life Music. This music is exclusive to Ghana and is much like our party music today, but a little more sophisticated- less pounding bass. I cannot tell you how excited I was when I saw some of the harvest dance and moves from African….however, I did not want to do any African until I determined the context…Hopefully that would be a Charles-approved way to approach such a situation haha. But it was a very fun night. Kim recorded a few good portions of it, so I am sure they will be uploaded to facebook sometime in the near future.

            That’s pretty much it for now…tomorrow we have orientation till lunchtime, and then we head to campus to move in. I am so excited to get on campus and finally get a feel for it. I also figure out my roommate tomorrow, and we have free time to explore and SLEEP. I bet I’ll take a nap. Haha

            In the meantime, prayers are appreciated. It is not a piece of cake here, even though the people are fabulous. I still cannot believe how friendly everyone is…I just am looking forward to adapting more. In the meantime, Ill be calling my mother quite often ;). One day at a time though. I miss everyone, and you’ll be hearing again from me soon!

P.S. the money here is SO MUCH BETTER. It’s colorful. Also, don’t be confused, I am having a great time so far, and I have already learned tons. It’s just adjusting time which makes things difficult.